So Your Getting a Boxer Puppy!!

Here is a list suggested supplies

Crate & Bedding

This should be the first item in your cart. The wired crates are easier to move around, as they usually fold down. For a boxer, you will need one at least 36x24x28. If you are getting a male boxer, you may want to go to the next size up. Many wired crates can be purchased with a divider, which you can use while your puppy is small.

For bedding, get something washable. Imitation sheepskin is great for puppies because the material is designed to draw moisture from the surface. This will give your puppy a dry place to sleep even if he has an accident in his crate. Line the entire bottom of the crate with newspaper and lay the sheepskin on one half of the crate. Hopefully if the puppy does go in the crate, he will go on the newspaper. No lambskin? Old blankets, bathroom rugs or throws work great too.

When the puppy is a little older and less likely to have accidents in the crate, put a durable chew item in the crate to keep him busy and help prevent boredom. Kong chews, and small twisted ropes are great. The thin squeekies will be destroyed in less than a day!

Stainless Steel Bowls

For a puppy, a 1 qt size bowl is recommended for putting their food in. When they are older, you will need a 2 quart bowl. The water bowl should be a 2-3 quart wide based, non-tip bowl. If you are buying bowls that hang on the inside of the crate, do not get the ones that have a looped “hook”, as a puppy can get their head stuck in the loop if the dish is knocked off. Make sure you get the ones that have a clamp that secures the dish tightly to the crate.

Leash and Collar

Puppies are going to grow, so don’t spend too much money on the first one. Purchase an adjustable collar (10’-14”). When he grows out of it, get the next adjustable size up. That should be the last collar he needs. Boxers on average weigh between 40-90 lbs, so I prefer the wide, flat leashes. The flat nylon “choke” collars are better than the buckle/clip collars. The buckle/clip collars when the pup/dog pulls back, causes an arch in their back and makes the muscle in that area stronger, eventually creating a small “hump”.

Nail Clippers

A cordless grinders (dremel) found in your local hardware store or dog supply catalog is best for trimming nails, as it is safest and least painful. Here is a link for trimming nails with a dremel: http://cinnibonboxers.com/html/tips___links.html If you prefer the traditional clippers, the “pliers” style cutters are recommended.

Toys

Make sure the toys are safe, not too small to swallow and have plenty of them. All dogs love balls, twisted ropes and and durable chew toys, just make sure they are not a solid rubber ball (like the old super balls), as they split and become a choking hazard.

Food

Every breeder/owner has their “favorite” brand of dog food. Start with the brand your breeder already has the puppy on. If you want to change, do it gradually so you don’t throw your puppy’s digestive system off track. Even as adults, I pour heated water over their food and soak it for 5 minutes. This seams to let the “gases” out of the food. Then add a large spoon of canned meat and mix it in. This helps cut down on boxers having gas and less chance of choking.

Bones

All dogs love to chew on bones. There are many kinds. Favorites are shank and knuckle bones. These can be purchased in pet stores. The smaller ones can be purchased with a filling inside. They can be refilled a few times with either peanut butter or Cheese Whiz. This will occupy your dog for awhile. You can also freeze the bone with the filling inside, providing the puppy more time to chew out the filling. When a bone starts to wear thin or splinter it becomes a choking hazard, discard it. These are great when crate training or plan to be gone for a few hours. They will stay occupied until they are ready to nap.

Never give your puppy barbeque rib bones because they are usually boiled before they are barbequed, making the bone splinter easily, pig ears because they are unhealthy, hooves because they splinter easily, and NEVER rawhide because it is a choking hazard.

ID Tag

If putting an ID tag on your puppy, always update the information when needed.

Gate

Purchase a safety gate (found in the infant section) to block areas that you want to keep your puppy out of/or inside of. They can also be found at most hardware stores in the “pet” section.

Search the net and price compare for your shopping needs. There are great bargains at the tip of your fingers.